As I write this, I’ve been nomadic for over a month while my family and I transition to a new house. That’s meant a lot of time in hotels, to the extent that we brought an Apple TV 4K with us to improve our entertainment options. Although hotel TVs are slowly become more modern, I’d rather not sign into public devices, and Apple’s hardware will always be snappier than what a chain is willing to pay for.

Whether you’re traveling or just trying to save money, it can be tempting to use an iPhone or Android device as your go-to media streamer. I’m going to tell you how you can do it, but also point out why you should be stepping up to a dedicated media streamer if you want to avoid a TV’s native apps.

Brand

Apple

Bluetooth codecs

5.0

Go wireless, young man (or woman)

The most convenient options are Apple AirPlay and Google Cast. Both are supported on most TVs now, and typically, all you have to do is tap the correct icon once you’ve found something to watch, then select the target TV from a list of nearby devices. You don’t even have to be connected to the same Wi-Fi network in many situations. Note, however, that you may have to dip into a TV’s Settings app to make sure casting functions are configured properly. Some TVs may also support Google Cast without explicitly mentioning it — if your set has a generically-named casting feature, chances are, it’s compatible with Google’s technology.

Under ideal circumstances, AirPlay and Google Cast don’t actually push content directly — they tell a TV’s native apps to fetch media. I say ideal because, on top of not having to sign into another device, your TV may better exploit specs like Dolby Vision or HDR10+. For that reason, you should avoid wireless screen mirroring whenever possible. Though it expands support to every app (on paper, anyway), output may be limited to 1080p and/or SDR (standard dynamic range), never mind incorporating spatial audio formats like Dolby Atmos.

The only other alternative here is wired screen mirroring. To make this work, you’ll likely need a compatible USB-C-to-HDMI adapter, since TV makers continue to skimp on included USB ports. Be sure to check whether your phone supports DisplayPort Alt Mode over USB-C. If it doesn’t, some cables and adapters may be off-limits, as they rely on Alt Mode to carry video. Whenever possible, you should also aim for accessories with HDMI 2.1 or later. 2.0 is normally fine for screen mirroring — you’ll find out why in a second — but 2.1 is preferable for futureproofing purposes, or else interchangeability with other devices.

Once your phone is plugged into your TV’s HDMI port, there’s not much more you need to do. Your TV should directly replicate whatever’s on your phone’s screen, so your only usability concerns are going to be power, app compatibility, silencing notifications, and the reach of your cables. I’d recommend against using a passive HDMI connection longer than 9 to 10 feet (about 2.7 to 3 meters), as there’s a real risk of signal drops. You’ll want an active cable or signal booster beyond that distance.

Blame industry priorities

By this point, you’ve probably guessed most or all of the downsides. Even with a perfect AirPlay or Google Cast environment, there will always be a wait for your phone to discover your TV, send a media request, then successfully trigger streaming. Once that’s accomplished, there’s going to be input lag whenever you use casting-based playback controls. A TV or dedicated media streamer interface is inevitably more responsive, and that’s before you cope with any network configuration obstacles.

Worse, electronics makers and app creators seem hellbent on crippling video output. It’s not just wireless screen mirroring that might limit quality — adapters frequently top out at HDMI 2.0’s 4K60, whereas your TV may support smoother refresh rates up to 120Hz or better, along with VRR sync to prevent visual artifacts. And while phones like the iPhone 17 Pro can technically output 4K HDR, apps may arbitrarily restrict quality anyway as an anti-piracy measure. HDMI and wireless connections alike may end up limited to 1080p SDR, assuming projection isn’t blocked.

On a final note, there’s audio. This is less of a concern, since if video works, you’ll get some form of audio too. The trouble is that there’s a high chance you’ll lose spatial formats like Atmos, or in some cases, any form of surround sound. Stereo will be a disappointment if you’ve paid for a state-of-the-art speaker system.