Vogel NYC has a deep-rooted history—not only in footwear but also in the city of New York itself. While the definition of a shoemaker can be endlessly debated by Reddit “intellects” and GQ pundits, here on The Shoe Snob Blog, it’s simple: a shoemaker is someone (or a brand) who makes their own shoes. And by that definition, Vogel NYC is America’s oldest shoemaker.
History
Vogel NYC began as E. Vogel in 1879, right here in New York City. Egidius Vogel, a German shoemaker, specialized in bespoke footwear and saw an opportunity to thrive during the vibrant Gilded Age. He set up his first shop in the Wall Street area and quickly gained recognition, crafting equestrian-style boots for New York’s elite—and eventually for the U.S. Olympic Equestrian team. Some even credit E. Vogel with creating and popularizing what we now know as the modern-day wingtip.
Today, Vogel NYC looks quite different from the company it once was. While its roots remain grounded in equestrian footwear and bespoke classics, there’s now a fresh twist. The Vogel family has recently stepped away from the shoe world, passing on their legacy to Italian helmet maker KASK—a company well-positioned to carry forward not only the equestrian tradition but also the bespoke shoemaking heritage rooted in NYC.
Legacy
To kick off the new era of Vogel NYC, the brand partnered with Craig Arthur von Schroeder—a man with deep roots in menswear. Craig founded his own suiting company, Commonwealth Proper, and has also worked with notable footwear brands like Don Ville and bespoke shoemaker Perry Ercolino. He’s a great guy, and I had the pleasure of chatting with him during my visit to the shop. His energy is contagious, and it’s clear he has a real passion for design—which is exactly what he brings to Vogel NYC.
The new Vogel blends classic ideas with modern twists. While they offer “bespoke” footwear, it’s bespoke primarily in terms of measurement/fit/initial make. Much of their offering is Blake-stitched (though hand-welted is available for those who want it). The process includes in-person measurement, last creation, leather cutting, upper sewing, and traditional assembly—finished off with a machine-stitched sole. The result is a combination of craftsmanship and that sleek, Italian-inspired aesthetic with a super-fine, thin sole.
They do offer traditional models in the traditional way, but their idea moving forward maintains a blend of traditional handmade bespoke, coupled with sleek manufacturing.
Work, Weekend, & Wonder
The inspiration behind the new direction is summed up by their slogan: Work, Weekend, & Wonder. “Work” represents classic leather styles (with Craig’s unique design touches) on a leather sole. “Weekend” takes those same silhouettes and renders them in suede, set on contrasting white soles. “Wonder” is the modern take—think commando soles paired with polished leathers.
This season kicks off with Craig’s reinterpretation of the penny loafer, featuring an intricate strap and detailed design. As the brand develops, the plan is to release monthly drops—each featuring a new model across their “WWW” categories. It’s actually a pretty clever system. While things are just getting started with their first batch of samples, I can easily imagine that after 12 months of consistent releases, Vogel NYC will have a very cool and cohesive collection on their hands.
I’m excited to see what Vogel NYC brings to the American shoe scene. We need more shoemakers here—brands helping to revive an industry that once flourished in the U.S.
If you are in NYC, or visiting, make sure to reach out and stop by to see what they are all about!
Learn more here: https://vogelnyc.com/
—Justin FitzPatrick, The Shoe Snob
Shop · Marketplace · J.FitzPatrick Footwear · Patreon
***Sadly, when I visited, everyone was on Summer Break, so there were no ‘action’ shots. For more photography showing them making shoes and the people behind the actual craft side, see Shoegazing’s Post***
