At Torishéju, the room felt like an opera awaiting its first note. Chandeliers flickered above red velvet and gold-trimmed chairs, while a circle of sand cut through the grandeur. Classical music played beneath whispered conversations in French and English.

Torishéju Dumi met that ghostly setting with clothes that were anything but shy. Miniskirts showed their pockets; dresses bared the back. Leopard print paired with pinstripes, jackets bristled with nail-like embellishments, and a strapless dress revealed the unmistakable shape of unbuttoned trousers from behind. A red-and-white striped dress finished with an oversized bow brought a flash of playfulness.

Lace, tulle, checks and sharp tailoring moved between hourglass minis and sweeping lengths. Double-brimmed hats, scarf-draped headwear and sheer knee socks added to the collection’s delicious unease. The towering heels proved precarious when one model fell, but the clothes left a clear impression: seductive, strange and entirely Torishéju.

Following the show, Fashion Bomb Daily caught up with Edward Buchanan, who in 1995 became Bottega Veneta’s first design director at just 26 years old, straight out of Parsons School of Design. Buchanan built the foundation for the house’s ready-to-wear line and led its first-ever runway show, work that went largely uncredited for decades until Bottega Veneta honored him in its 50th anniversary campaign. Today he runs the knitwear label Sansovino 6, serves as Fashion Director at Perfect Magazine Milan, and is preparing to launch The Situation, a creative space in Milan supporting emerging design talent.

Buchanan shared his thoughts on Torishéju Dumi’s collection and gave us a first look at what’s coming next with The Situation.